By definition, estate jewelry is jewelry that has been “pre-owned”. It may be relatively new (in your jewelry box), 50 years old, or more than 100 years old, the latter classified as antique. What is so great about this, is that the pieces often reflect the fashion period of the time … like Art Deco or Retro. The pieces have a definite design history to them and may also contain some rare and no longer available gems. The most sought after is jewelry from major design houses, such as Tiffany, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, and major designers, such as Oscar Heyman and Schlumberger.
We offer a variety of pieces from the mid-1800’s to present day. We select pieces based on their uniqueness, history, designer, and quality of the work. Most come from the auction houses such as Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Skinner’s. Our estate jewelry starts with mid-century Victorian to present day designers. We have pieces by Oscar Heyman, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Buccellati, Bulgari, Georg Jensen, Stephen Webster, & Paolo Castogli, as well as other fine one-of-a-kind pieces, some with unique provenances (such as a Doris Duke brooch or Lillian Russell brooch). Prices are available upon request.*
Estate Jewelry Timeline (per Bohnams & Butterfields)
Victorian Pearl and Diamond Brooch of Lillian Russell
You may not recognize the name Lillian Russell, but she was the most famous actress from the late 1800s thru the early 1900s, with a long and celebrated career in New York City. She was a close friend with “Diamond Jim Brady.” Multiple times he asked her to marry him and multiple times she refused. They both had voracious appetites.
Below is a picture of brooch that once belonged to Lillian Russell. Constructed in the late 1800’s, the diamonds and pearls are mounted in sterling silver and backed with gold. This was done so that the white metal could be seen but not tarnish the woman’s clothes (protected by the gold).
Earrings
Here are two pairs of earrings of very different styles, but both modern. The first pair of earrings was designed and manufactured in Italy. They are purple “plique-a-jour” and 18KYG. As you can see the purple glass is transparent. The second pair is made of carved jadeite, surrounded by diamonds mounted in oxidized 18K white gold. Both are post-style earrings.
Bracelets
These two bracelets have a lot in common in that they are both from the 1940’s, the Retro period. The style is referred to as a brick-link buckle bracelet. The linkage makes the bracelets very flexible. The bracelet on the left was made by Cartier, with a sapphire and diamond clasp. The second bracelet is equally beautiful with its diamonds and rubies, but it is not signed.
Necklaces
These three necklaces are quite different but were made by famous designers. The first necklace was created by Ruser, a designer who ….. The second necklace was designed by Angela Cummings while at Tiffany & Co. It is an openwork butterfly, accented with diamonds and hangs off-center on a fine two foot chain. The third necklace is by Bulgari. It contains beautiful cabochons of tourmalines, aquamarines, and citrine.
Rings
The first ring is a Cartier tri-color band Panthere’ made during the 1990’s. It has emerald eyes and black enamel nose. The second ring is a Tiffany & Co. piece with a 5.25 carat marquis cut precious topaz ring. It is flanked by diamond baguettes and mounted in 14KYG. Lastly, is another Cartier ring. It is also a buckle brick-link ring with sapphires and diamonds. A nice match to the bracelet above.
Brooches
Originally designed to fasten clothes, brooches have come and gone in popularity. At the moment they are quite popular, not only with women but men as well. Each era had its own particular style. The first brooch is an 18KYG lion made by Van Cleef and Arpels from around the 60’s. The second brooch is a lovely tied bow from the 1940’s, known as the “Retro Period”. The last brooch is a Chick-a-dee brooch, also from the 1960s.
